4wd launch drag setup

[Projectvad3r]

I'm trying to finish up setting my rig up to drag race. It used to be on a maxed out 6" Fabtech lift with horrible CV axle angles. On 18x10 welds with 35x12.5 Toyo MTs.

Currently is lowered all the way down. So 6" in the front, 4" blocks in the back. 20x12 wheels on 305.55r20 Nitto terra grappler g2.

I had a HUGE support from Jason picking out the right combo for beefing up my front end.
Consisting of the Kryptonite Ultimate stage 3 package w/ straight centerlink and tie rods, Kryptonite motor mounts, Kryptonite upper control arms, Kryptonite t-case brace.

Any suggestions, tips, or parts I need before I go see what Vad3r has in it?
Thanks!

[DmaxStoreJimmy]

I'm trying to finish up setting my rig up to drag race. It used to be on a maxed out 6" Fabtech lift with horrible CV axle angles. On 18x10 welds with 35x12.5 Toyo MTs.

Currently is lowered all the way down. So 6" in the front, 4" blocks in the back. 20x12 wheels on 305.55r20 Nitto terra grappler g2.

I had a HUGE support from Jason picking out the right combo for beefing up my front end.
Consisting of the Kryptonite Ultimate stage 3 package w/ straight centerlink and tie rods, Kryptonite motor mounts, Kryptonite upper control arms, Kryptonite t-case brace.

Any suggestions, tips, or parts I need before I go see what Vad3r has in it?
Thanks!

You are in the right direction for sure with your set up. A built trans, properly matched converter with billet stator would be my next thing

we will get one of our techs to chime in

[DirtyMax63]

I can give you what I have seen with this type of setup. I have or had a tough country 6in lift with 4in blocks and 35's. I now run 33 and have 2in blocks and lowered the torsion bars all the way down. I currently run fab tech uca's, but by lowering T bars I run out of chamber adj. I did put the ball joints on top and that helped, but still not where I can get 0 or in spec. So I raised the bars up to bring chamber in and lost the ability to do high boost launches. But when the bars were down all the way I could boost 25lbs no problem. I still have the taller spindles on the front which I like do to the frame or diff support I get from the lift. I did order stock uca's and that will let me lower the front back down again. And I'll see if I can go lower, maybe put in different keys. Also going to try the lowering shackles and bring the rear down.
So if I haven't rattled on. The lower the better for drag racing. If you do or will do sled pull 26in hitch height is best if you can keep that in the rear.
And the kryptonite front you have is out of this world for racing. Look into traction bars as well if you don't have them. I also did a bigger front driveline. you can't get much in there. but .134 wall thickness and the front can take a bigger u-joint.

[DirtyMax63]

I should have put in there that the difference of the 1in I raised it to bring chamber in was a lot on how well it would hook up on the launch.

[DmaxStoreJimmy]

I can give you what I have seen with this type of setup. I have or had a tough country 6in lift with 4in blocks and 35's. I now run 33 and have 2in blocks and lowered the torsion bars all the way down. I currently run fab tech uca's, but by lowering T bars I run out of chamber adj. I did put the ball joints on top and that helped, but still not where I can get 0 or in spec. So I raised the bars up to bring chamber in and lost the ability to do high boost launches. But when the bars were down all the way I could boost 25lbs no problem. I still have the taller spindles on the front which I like do to the frame or diff support I get from the lift. I did order stock uca's and that will let me lower the front back down again. And I'll see if I can go lower, maybe put in different keys. Also going to try the lowering shackles and bring the rear down.
So if I haven't rattled on. The lower the better for drag racing. If you do or will do sled pull 26in hitch height is best if you can keep that in the rear.
And the kryptonite front you have is out of this world for racing. Look into traction bars as well if you don't have them. I also did a bigger front driveline. you can't get much in there. but .134 wall thickness and the front can take a bigger u-joint.

Always nice to hear from the guys who have been there and done that!

[DirtyMax63]

hope it was a little help. All I know that one inch made a big difference on the start. You wouldn't think it would, but wow.

[DMAXDR]

Like Dirtymax63 stated a set of traction bars is a must and just as important as a properly set up front end. You've got the steering handled. CV angles are important as well set flat or slightly up are good as the front will rise and increase that angle at launch. With a little testing you'll find the right chassis and powertrain setup.

[8aford97@gmail.com]

All of that sounds good for trucks with lifts but what about lowered rigs. I know CV angles should be flat or a little negative. Maybe a little insight on how lowered vehicles should be set up besides stronger steering components.

[DirtyMax63]

I know you couldn't run then on the street, but what about straps on the front end to keep it down on the launch? I do something like that to the rear when pulling. I don't have a solid rear end so I get the hitch height I want and chain around frame and axle then pump up the air bags as high as they will go about 100-110lbs I still get a little give but helps a lot. Could you do the same on the front for the strip.?